Our skin cells tend to turn over more slowly in winter. A light exfoliation treatment can help revitalize gray winter skin and help even out discoloration or pigmentation. Winter time is also the perfect time to try a gentle peel, which requires you to stay out of the sun when possible.
Chemical peels & what they are
Did you know that professional chemical skin peels can treat a number of skin concerns? Skin peels help fix your spots, prevent and treat the signs of ageing, brighten and balance skin pigment and tone. They even help enhance your sun resistance and boost hydration to alleviate dryness and sensitivity.
These are some of the specific skin conditions you can have treated with professional chemical skin peels, what to expect when going for the treatment and how you and your skin will feel before and afterwards.
Skin peels can fix your spots
For pimples and breakouts, the Lamelle Beta Plus skin peel, which is a special version of betahydroxy salicylic acid that’s adapted to be very anti-inflammatory and able to help calm and help remove comedones (black- and whiteheads).
The treatment: Your skin is cleansed and exfoliated with Lamelle’s Cathepsin D, which mimics your skin’s natural exfoliants. After this, the peel is applied to your face with a brush, and it is left on for 5 minutes before a neutralising agent is applied, followed by a short moisturiser massage.
What it feels like: When the peel is applied, your skin might feel a little tingly. When the neutralising agent is applied, the chemical reaction produces a little extra warmth and the tingling will feel slightly more intense for a very short period. Your skin will feel plump and hydrated directly after and may be a little red – especially over any open pimples – for a little while afterwards. Follow your therapist’s recommendation for caring for your skin over the next few days.
Skin peels can prevent and treat aging
For ageing, insist on Lamelle Alpha skin peel or Lamelle Retistore. The Alpha peel is an alphahydroxy (fruit) acid that’s ideal for treating sun-damaged skin, while Retistore is a more advanced peel that gives full epidermal restructuring and requires some social downtime.
The treatments: The alpha peel is very similar to your other peels: a quick cleanse and exfoliation, then the peel is applied for a few minutes and you feel a bit of tingling until it is neutralised, and then a moisturiser is applied and you can practically go back to work again, if need be. With Restistore, you might want to plan a little bit more downtime, because the product is left on your skin for 6–12 hours.
What it feels like: An alpha peel tingles on the skin during the application and your skin may be a little red afterwards, but mostly your skin feels plump, hydrated and beautifully smooth. There might be a little dryness in the days after, so follow your therapist’s instructions for moisturising.
With Restistore – and especially the supercharged Restistore Plus treatment – there’s virtually no tingling during the first five-minute preparation application, and then the active treatment is left on your skin for up to 12 hours, with specific instructions on how to wash it off and what to apply immediately afterwards and in the days to come. Your skin might feel a little itchy during the treatment, but it’s just the retinoid penetrating and won’t irritate the skin. After the treatment your skin will feel plump and smooth, maybe a little heat sensitive and you’ll experience fine flaking of the skin for two to five days after the treatment (although it won’t be visible peeling and you can safely go back to work if need be), so keep up your homecare programme as advised by your therapist.
Skin peels for rebalancing and brightening pigmented skin
For hyperpigmentation, ask for Lamelle Beta skin peel. This beta-hydroxy peel promotes exfoliation safely and effectively, increasing cell turnover to help get rid of excess pigmentation to get a brighter, more even skin tone.
The treatment: After cleansing and exfoliation, the peel is applied with some gauze and left on until the tingling dissipates (usually after about three minutes). This skin peel neutralises itself, so there’s no need to apply a neutralising agent. Afterwards, the therapist will apply a moisturiser, some sunscreen and then give you some home-care treatments to apply over the next few days.
There are slight variations of this treatment. Sometimes it’s combined with a retinol treatment that has to stay on your skin for 8–12 hours, so you’ll have to plan some social downtime. Another version is the Beta peel combined with a spot-treatment of TCA (Lamelle’s strongest peel), applied in small quantities to only those spots that are resistant to the normal Beta treatment.
What it feels like: The Beta peel itself only tingles for about three minutes, after which your skin will feel plump and smooth. It might get a little dry and tight in the days to come, so follow your therapist’s home-care instructions carefully.
With the retinol treatment, you get your Beta peel and then the retinol will be applied and left on for up to 12 hours afterwards. You’ll be given instructions on how to wash it off and what moisturisers and sunscreens to apply and when. With the TCA spot treatment, the parts of the skin treated with TCA might feel hotter, drier and tighter for up to 48 hours afterwards. Follow your home-care routine, though, and you’ll have beautifully smooth, even-toned skin in a day or two.
Skin peels for preventing sun damage
To prevent photoaging, look to the Lamelle Lacti-firm peel. This peel is made from lactic acid (a type of alpha-hydroxy acid) and it is very comfortable and requires almost no social downtime. In fact, Lacti-firm is an ideal first peel if you’ve never had a skin peel before and are curious or just want to experience it for yourself before moving onto more targeted peels.
The treatment: After cleansing and exfoliation, the peel is applied with a brush and left on your skin for a few minutes (no more than 10), after which it is neutralised and moisturiser and sunscreen applied. This treatment helps prevent the signs of photoaging, stopping the formation of wrinkles, lines and pigment.
What it feels like: Lacti-firm tingles a little on the skin when it’s first applied, but then the sensation dissipates. It might feel a little tingly again when the neutralising agent is applied too. Your skin will feel very smooth, hydrated and plump after the treatment. And you have to follow your after-care regimen carefully to avoid and little dryness and tightness for a few days afterwards.
Remember that these professional chemical skin peels have to be performed by a trained Lamelle skincare specialist, a dermatologist or medical doctor.
A professional will assess your skin beforehand, to ensure that the right peel is used and that the treatment will be both safe and effective. Plus: having a trained pro right there with you is always good for making you feel safe and reassured when getting a treatment.
If you want more info on the perfect peel for your skin visit Lamelle SA.
Article by Lamelle SA.
First things first, if you’re not familiar with active ingredients, your first question is probably ‘What are active ingredients,anyway?’ Well, here’s the low down on everything you need to know about active ingredients, how they work and what they work for!
What are active ingredients?
The short answer : An active is the ingredient in a product addressing whatever skin concern it’s meant to target. An active ingredient has been proven in a lab by research to change the skin in some way and has data behind it. So, in other words, an active ingredient targets a specific concern, for example, congestion, dull skin, dry skin, acne, pigmentation, aging, you name it.
Here’s a breakdown of the most commonly found active ingredients in today’s skincare :
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)
Alpha-hydroxy acids are very commonly used and could be one of the following : glycolic, lactic, tartaric, and citric acids. Creams and lotions with alpha-hydroxy acids may help with fine lines, irregular pigmentation and age spots, and may help shrink enlarged pores. It is also recommended for acne scarring.
Environ Concentrated Alpha Hydroxy
Side effects of alpha-hydroxy acids include mild irritation and sun sensitivity. Sunscreen is SUPER important daily, but if you use products containing AHA’s, it is even MORE important. To help avoid skin irritation, start with a product with a maximum concentration of 10% to 15% AHA. If you are new to active ingredients, products containing AHA’s should be applied every other day and gradually work your way up to every day use.
Beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic acid)
Salicylic acid you will especially find in products that are targeted for acne. This ingredients removes dead skin and can improve the texture and color of sun-damaged skin. It penetrates oil-laden hair follicle openings and, as a result, also helps with acne. Some products containing Salicylic acid are available over-the-counter and others need a doctor’s prescription. Studies have shown that salicylic acid is less irritating than skin care products containing alpha-hydroxy acids, while providing similar improvement in skin texture and color.
Contains Glycolic and Lactic acid along with Salicylic acid
From personal experience and use of products containing Salicylic acid, I do experience dry, flakey skin on the areas I have applied the product to.
Skin care products containing hydroquinone are often called bleaching creams or lightening agents. This will ring a bell if you are familiar with Asian/Korean skincare – they are very much into whitening skincare products. Products containing Hydroquinone are used to lighten hyperpigmentation, such as age spots and dark spots related to pregnancy or hormone therapy (melasma or chloasma).
Products with Hydroquinone are banned over the counter in South Africa and can only be prescribed by a doctor. It is also recommended to be used for a specific period of time only. Again sunscreen should also be used religiously when using Hydroquinone.
Kojic acid is also is a remedy for the treatment of pigment problems and age spots. Discovered in 1989, kojic acid works similarly to hydroquinone. Kojic acid is derived from a fungus, and studies have shown that it is effective as a lightening agent, slowing production of melanin (brown pigment). Prior to using Kojic acid chech the specific percentage recommended for your skin.
Kojic Acid Serum by Skinceuticals
One that gets most, if not all skincare junkies very excited, myself included. Retinol is derived from vitamin A and is found in many over-the-counter “anti-aging” skin care products. Tretinoin, which is the active ingredient in prescription Retin-A and Renova creams, is a stronger version of retinol. If your skin is too sensitive to use Retin-A, over-the-counter retinol is an excellent alternative.
Overnight Retinol Repair by Dermalogica
Environ Retinol in a selection of 3 different strengths.
Here’s why skin responds to skin care products with retinol : Vitamin A has a molecular structure that’s tiny enough to get into the lower layers of skin, where it finds collagen and elastin. Retinol is proven to improve mottled pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, skin texture, skin tone and color, and your skin’s hydration levels. Retinyl palmitate is another ingredient related to retinol, but is less potent. A must in your skincare regime! It is an all-in-one powerhouse ingredient.
This is the only form of vitamin C that you should look for in your skin care products. There are many skin care products on the market today that boast vitamin C derivatives as an ingredient (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or ascorbyl palmitate, for example), but L-ascorbic acid is the only useful form of vitamin C in skin care products. With age and sun exposure, collagen synthesis in the skin decreases, leading to wrinkles. Vitamin C is the only antioxidant proven to stimulate the synthesis of collagen, minimizing fine lines, scars, and wrinkles.
Lamelle Vit C Corrective
Skin care products containing this substance are often used with vitamin C products to assist in effective penetration. Hyaluronic acid (also known as a glycosaminoglycan) is often touted for its ability to “reverse” or stop aging. In the big, big world of beauty, you might have heard of hyaluronic acid as the “key to the fountain of youth.” This is because the substance occurs naturally (and quite abundantly) in humans and animals, and is found in young skin, other tissues, and joint fluid. Hyaluronic acid is a component of the body’s connective tissues, and is known to cushion and lubricate. As you age, however, the forces of nature destroy hyaluronic acid. Diet and smoking can also affect your body’s level of hyaluronic acid over time. Skin care products with hyaluronic acid are most frequently used to treat wrinkled and also dehydrated skin.
Hyaluron Complex by Doctor Eckstein
Lamelle HA Plus Corrective – This is an absolute stunner of a product.
Copper peptide is often referred to as the most effective skin regeneration product, even though it’s only been on the market since 1997. Studies have shown that copper peptide promotes collagen and elastin production, acts as an antioxidant, and promotes production of glycosaminoglycans (think hyaluronic acid, as an example). Studies have also shown that copper-dependent enzymes increase the benefits of the body’s natural tissue-building processes. The substance helps to firm, smooth, and soften skin, doing it in less time than most other anti-aging skin care products. Clinical studies have found that copper peptides also remove damaged collagen and elastin from the skin and scar tissue because they activate the skin’s system responsible for those functions.
Copper Peptide by Dermafix
You may have heard of alpha-lipoic acid as “the miracle in a jar” for its anti-aging effects. It’s a newer, ultra-potent antioxidant that helps fight future skin damage and helps repair past damage. Alpha-lipoic acid has been referred to as a “universal antioxidant” because it’s soluble in both water and oil, which permits its entrance to all parts of the cell. Due to this quality, it is believed that alpha-lipoic acid can provide the greatest protection against damaging free radicals when compared with other antioxidants. Alpha-lipoic acid diminishes fine lines, gives skin a healthy glow, and boosts levels of other antioxidants, such as vitamin C.
Alpha Lipoic Activator by Nimue
If you’ve heard of fish referred to as brain food, you can thank DMAE. This substance is naturally produced in the brain, but DMAE is also present in anchovies, salmon, and sardines. DMAE boosts the production of acetylcholine, which is important for proper mental functions. DMAE in skin care products shows remarkable effects when applied topically to skin, resulting in the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles.
We hope after this post and the breakdown of each active ingredient, you have a clearer understanding about what each of them are and what purpose they serve.